January 1, 2024
Creating iconic costumes: the designer of Hollywood's golden age Irene Sharaff
Jorge Romero Mancebo

The designs of the iconic Irene Sharaff (Boston, January 23, 1910 - New York, August 16, 1993) have dressed characters in films such as Cleopatra, Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf and West Side Story.

The Golden Age of Hollywood gave us a vast number of actors, directors and producers, who all made wonderful films that have become part of our common memory. But we sometimes do not take into consideration the whole process of making a film, a complex system that includes designers, cameramen, art directors, video editing and so on.

Thus, Irene Sharaff has created designs for the Russian Ballet of Monte Carlo, the American Ballet Theatre and her dresses have appeared in 40 films and a total of 60 theatrical productions.

Irene Sharaff' designs have appeared in 40 films and a total of 60 theatrical productions
Portrait of Irene Sharaff. Image from Google Arts and Culture. The New York Public Library for the Performing Arts.

The designer left behind an impressive collection of works on paper. She showcased her ability to create sketches and drawings that were like operas themselves. Sharaff, who originally aspired to be a painter, studied at the School of Fine and Applied Arts in New York.

She began her career as an assistant to Aline Bernstein at Hedda Gabler. Then she did her first scenography in Alice in Wonderland. Two years later she was hired by the Russian Ballet of Monte Carlo to design operas such as Stravinsky's "Poker Game". In addition to her scenic designs, Sharaff received 15 Oscar nominations and won for her work on the costume characters in "West Side Story".

Sharaff received 15 Oscar nominations and won for her work on the costume characters in "West Side Story".
Irene Sharaff and Elizabeth Taylor in "Cleopatra" 1963, Joseph L. Mankiewicz. © 20th Century Fox.

Her distinctive style resided in her functional approach to costumes, creating a bridge between the classic and the contemporary. For her, costume is not just a simple garment worn by the actors, but a composition of colors, shapes and textures that enhance the character's personality. In her own words: "First I sketch the character as I imagine it in the script. Then, after meeting with the star, I modify the concept to adapt it to the personality of the actor or actress".

"First I sketch the character as I imagine it in the script. Then, after meeting with the star, I modify the concept to adapt it to the personality of the actor or actress" -Irene Sharaff

Irene was a versatile and creative woman whose work on Broadway and Hollywood continues to influence today, she even has an award under her name to pay tribute to the art of costume design.

Vincente Minnelli (2) original costume sketches by Irene Sharaff from Brigadoon. Image from Heritage Auctions.